Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya was not the kind of stay that made a perfect first impression.
We arrived late in the afternoon after a cold, drizzly day, a long drive from Sendai, and a stop at Miharu Takizakura, one of Japan’s most famous old cherry trees. By the time we pulled into the ryokan parking lot, it was around 17:30. The lot looked almost full, there seemed to be a company event happening inside, and we were already feeling a little rushed because dinner was included and we usually prefer to arrive earlier at a ryokan.
But once we checked in, the feeling changed.
The staff were warm and patient, the room was older but very clean, dinner was served privately in our room, and the overall value was much better than expected. At the time of our stay, we paid ¥24,500 total for two people with dinner and breakfast included. That price became part of why the stay was so memorable: the practical tradeoffs were real, but the food, service, and seasonal atmosphere made the value feel strong.
This review is for travellers considering Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya as a rural ryokan stopover in Fukushima, especially if you are visiting Miharu Takizakura or driving between Sendai / Matsushima and Utsunomiya.
Quick Verdict
Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya worked well for us as a one-night rural onsen ryokan stopover near Miharu Takizakura. The food was the biggest highlight: a private in-room kaiseki dinner, a proper Japanese ryokan breakfast, and very good value for the price we paid.
It is not a polished luxury ryokan. The building felt older, our annex room had a Japanese-style toilet, and the outdoor bath was small. Those details matter, especially for foreign travellers who are used to modern hotel rooms.
But the ryokan was clean, the staff were welcoming, the onsen water was distinctive, and the stay made sense for our route. I would not build an entire trip around Izutsuya alone, but if you are already visiting Miharu Takizakura or travelling through this part of Fukushima by car, it is worth considering.
Stay Details at a Glance
- Ryokan: Nekonaki Onsen Shikibu-no-Yakata Izutsuya
- Japanese name: 猫啼温泉 式部のやかた 井筒屋
- Location: Ishikawa, Fukushima Prefecture
- Stayed: April 10–11, one night
- Booked through: Official website
- Room: Annex Japanese-style room with toilet
- Meals: Dinner and breakfast included
- Dinner timing: Usually confirm the available dinner time during check-in; arrive early if you want more flexibility
- Price paid: ¥24,500 total for two people at the time of our stay
- Tax note: Check your own booking confirmation. Current official plan notes say listed prices include consumption tax, while the ¥150 onsen tax is charged separately.
- Best reason to stay: Visiting Miharu Takizakura during sakura season
- Main caveat: Our in-room toilet was Japanese-style
- Would I stay again? Yes, ideally in a room with a western-style / heated bidet toilet
Why We Stayed Here
We chose Izutsuya mainly because we wanted to visit Miharu Takizakura before continuing toward Utsunomiya.
Driving from Sendai or Matsushima to Utsunomiya is possible in one day, but it becomes a long travel day once you add lunch, sightseeing, weather, and cherry blossom season logistics. We had eaten beef tongue in Sendai, then drove south toward Fukushima to see Miharu Takizakura. Instead of pushing all the way to Utsunomiya afterward, we booked a one-night ryokan stay in the area.
That is the context where Izutsuya made the most sense for us: not as a standalone destination ryokan, but as a practical and memorable stopover connected to a real travel route.
Visiting Miharu Takizakura Before Check-In
Miharu Takizakura was the main reason we routed through this area. It is over 1,000 years old, listed as one of Japan’s three great cherry trees, and designated as a National Natural Monument. During bloom season, visiting the tree can feel like a destination in itself.
In our case, visiting before check-in made the day more stressful. We arrived at the ryokan later than we normally like, around 17:30. For a normal hotel, that would not matter much. For a ryokan with dinner included, it matters more because you are working around fixed meal times and you also want enough time to enjoy the onsen before dinner.
If I did this route again, I would either start earlier from Sendai or accept that the ryokan part of the day would feel slightly compressed.
Arrival: A Stressful First Impression That Improved Quickly
Our first impression was not amazing, but I do not think that was entirely the ryokan’s fault.
It was cold and drizzling, we had been driving for a while, and we arrived later than planned. When we pulled into the parking lot, it looked quite full. My first thought was that we might have trouble finding a spot and then need to carry luggage in the rain.
Luckily, there were still some available spaces. Once we entered the building, there also seemed to be a company event happening, with many people dressed formally. For a moment, the ryokan felt busier and less relaxing than I expected.
The check-in process changed that feeling. The staff member at reception was helpful, friendly, and patient. She walked us through the check-in process, brought us to our room, and pointed out the onsen and public washroom along the way. Before entering the building, we felt slightly agitated. After check-in, we felt welcomed and comfortable.
That became the pattern of the stay: some practical details were not perfect, but the staff made the experience feel welcoming.
Location and Access
Izutsuya is in Ishikawa Town, Fukushima Prefecture. The official address is 22 Nekonaki, Ishikawa-machi, Ishikawa-gun, Fukushima, and room types and plans are listed on the Izutsuya official website.
For our trip, it made the most sense by car. The ryokan has free parking, and current booking information lists 70 spaces, free and with no reservation required. If you are not driving, the nearest station is JR Iwaki-Ishikawa Station on the JR Suigun Line. Current access information commonly lists the ryokan as around 12 minutes on foot or about 3 minutes by taxi from the station, but I would still check the map before arriving with luggage.
For most foreign travellers, I would recommend Izutsuya mainly if you are driving or if you have already planned your public transport carefully. It is not difficult to reach in theory, but it is not the type of location where you casually step out of a major city station and find yourself surrounded by attractions.
Room Review: Older, Clean, and Good Value
We stayed in an annex Japanese-style room with an in-room toilet.
The room felt older. You could tell from the walls, window framing, and some of the infrastructure. Combined with the older room fittings, it was a reminder that this was a well-kept older ryokan rather than a newly renovated hotel.
But the room was very clean. That made a big difference.
For the price we paid, I would rate the room around 4 out of 5. It was not luxurious, but it was comfortable enough, and the older feeling did not affect us too much because the room was well kept.
The best part of the room was the sakura view. Since we stayed in April, we were lucky that the cherry blossoms were in full bloom and visible from the room window. That added a lot to the atmosphere and made the stay feel much more seasonal than the room alone might suggest.
Important Toilet Note: Check Your Room Type Before Booking
This is the biggest practical caveat from our stay: our in-room toilet was Japanese-style.
For readers who are not familiar with the term, a Japanese-style toilet usually means a squat-style toilet rather than a western seated toilet. This was our first time staying at a ryokan where the in-room toilet was Japanese-style, and I personally found it uncomfortable.
There was a public western-style toilet nearby, which helped. But if you are staying overnight, having an in-room toilet that you do not feel comfortable using can affect the stay more than you might expect.
I do not want to overstate this as if it ruins the ryokan. It did not ruin the stay for us. But I do think foreign travellers should know this before booking.
Also, do not assume every room at Izutsuya has the same toilet setup. This point changed my view of the ryokan quite a bit after checking the official room descriptions again: the main building Japanese-style rooms are listed with bath and heated bidet toilet, while annex rooms are listed separately. If I stayed here again, I would seriously consider paying for or choosing a room type with a western-style / heated bidet toilet. If this matters to you, check the exact room type on the official site or contact the ryokan before booking. Look specifically for whether the room has a western toilet, washlet / heated bidet toilet, shared toilet, or Japanese-style toilet.
Dinner Review: The Highlight of the Stay
Dinner was the main reason this stay worked so well.
It was served in our room, which made the experience feel private and relaxed. After a long day of driving, sightseeing, and arriving later than planned, being able to sit in the room and enjoy dinner without going anywhere else was exactly what we needed.
The meal felt like a full kaiseki-style dinner, starting from the opening dishes and continuing through multiple seasonal courses to dessert. The sashimi was fresh, the abalone was tender, and the overall quality was high. But what stood out most was not one single dish. It was the sense that the chef had put real effort into the meal.
There were many seasonal details, and the dishes felt carefully prepared rather than just included because the room plan required dinner. For the price we paid, this was the part that made Izutsuya feel like very good value.
Breakfast Review: Japanese Ryokan Breakfast in the Dining Hall
Breakfast was served in a dining hall rather than in the room.
When we entered, staff brought us to our assigned table. The room had multiple tables set up for small groups, mostly two to four people, and each table already had a Japanese ryokan breakfast set prepared.
I would describe this as a proper Japanese-style ryokan breakfast set. What I liked most was the quality of the food and how carefully the meal was prepared. There was a prepared set at the table, while rice, miso soup, and natto were self-serve.
One thing travellers should know about ryokan breakfasts is that they often end earlier than hotel breakfasts. Current Rakuten listing information for Izutsuya shows breakfast from 7:30 to 8:30, which matches the general ryokan pattern of earlier meal times. This is especially important if you are a night owl or like sleeping in. A slow morning can still work at a ryokan, but it usually means waking up early, having breakfast, and then enjoying the onsen or packing before check-out.
Onsen Review: Rare Spring Water, Indoor Bath, and Small Outdoor Bath
Izutsuya’s onsen has both indoor and outdoor shared baths. The official site describes the spring source as an alkaline simple weak radioactive cold mineral spring, a rare radioactive spring type in Japan. In practical terms, I would describe the water as clear and without a strong smell.
During my bath time, the indoor bath felt like a decent size, while the outdoor bath was much smaller. I think the outdoor bath would fit two people comfortably, but three would feel tight. My partner used the other side and had the same impression: the outdoor bath was comfortable for about two people, while three would likely feel tight.
I was lucky when I used it. Just as I was about to go into the outdoor bath, a group of three ladies was leaving, so I had a quiet moment to enjoy it. If they had stayed, I probably would have waited or skipped the outdoor bath.
There was no private bath during our stay, so this is best for travellers who are comfortable using shared gender-separated onsen baths. As with many ryokan, bath layouts and men’s/women’s sides may differ, so treat this as our experience rather than a full facility audit.
Sakura Season: View from the Room and Morning Walk
April was a good time to stay here.
The sakura visible from our room window made the room feel more special, and the area around the ryokan felt much more beautiful the next morning than it had when we arrived.
After checking out, we walked around the area nearby. Because the cherry blossoms were in full bloom and petals were falling like snow, the quiet rural setting felt calm and memorable. Back inside the ryokan, the café / lounge area near reception looked out toward a small zen-garden-like view, which added to the feeling that this was a countryside ryokan worth slowing down for — especially in sakura season.
This is one reason I would recommend Izutsuya more strongly in April than as a random stop at any time of year.
Is This Area Good for Cycling?
The next morning, we noticed quite a few people cycling outside the ryokan area. At the time, I wondered whether this part of Fukushima had a cycling angle.
There appears to be local cycling information for the Ishikawa area, and the roads around the ryokan did feel like the kind of rural setting where cyclists might enjoy a quiet ride. That said, I would not describe Izutsuya as a cycling destination based only on our stay. If cycling is a major reason for your trip, check current Fukushima or Ishikawa cycling resources before building an itinerary around it.
For most readers, though, cycling should be treated as a bonus angle rather than the main reason to stay.
Best For
Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya is best for travellers who:
- Are visiting Miharu Takizakura during sakura season
- Are driving between Sendai / Matsushima and Utsunomiya and want a rural stopover
- Want a dinner-included ryokan stay without paying luxury ryokan prices
- Value food, warmth, and cleanliness more than modern room design
- Are comfortable using shared onsen baths
- Are curious about rural Fukushima beyond the usual tourist route
Skip If
You may want to skip Izutsuya, or at least choose your room carefully, if:
- You strongly prefer modern hotel-style rooms
- You are uncomfortable with Japanese-style toilets and cannot confirm a western toilet room
- You want a large scenic outdoor bath
- You need a private onsen bath
- You are a night owl and strongly prefer late hotel-style breakfast hours
- You are looking for a destination ryokan with many attractions within walking distance
Would We Stay Again?
I would stay again if the route made sense, especially during sakura season or if I were visiting Miharu Takizakura again.
For one night, our annex room worked well enough. For a longer stay, I would choose one of the main building rooms described in the toilet section above.
Practical Booking Tips
Before booking Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya, I would check:
- Room toilet type — confirm whether your room has a western toilet, washlet / heated bidet toilet, shared toilet, or Japanese-style toilet.
- Meal plan — make sure dinner and breakfast are included if you want the full ryokan experience.
- Dinner time — in our experience, ryokan dinner time is often selected during check-in rather than fully reserved at booking. If the ryokan is not full and you arrive earlier, you may have a few time options, often somewhere around 17:30–19:30. But every ryokan is different, and if you check in late, your options may be limited. Rakuten currently lists check-in as 15:00–19:00 and check-out as 10:00, though plan details can vary.
- Breakfast time — breakfast may be early. Current Rakuten information lists breakfast from 7:30 to 8:30.
- Official booking language — the English official page is useful for basic information, but the official online booking flow appears to be in Japanese. If you are not comfortable booking in Japanese, consider contacting the ryokan or using a booking platform you understand.
- Price and tax — our ¥24,500 total was the price from our stay. Current official plan notes say displayed plan prices include consumption tax, while the ¥150 onsen tax is separate. Check your own booking confirmation.
- Transportation — driving is easiest, but public transport access exists via JR Iwaki-Ishikawa Station.
- Sakura timing — April can make the stay more special, especially if you are combining it with Miharu Takizakura.
- Bath expectations — the outdoor bath was small on both men’s and women’s sides based on our stay, and there was no private bath during our stay.
Final Thoughts
Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya is not the type of ryokan I would recommend to everyone.
It is older, rural, and has room-specific comfort details that foreign travellers should check carefully before booking. But it also has the things that make a ryokan stay feel worthwhile: warm service, a proper dinner, a calm onsen, seasonal atmosphere, and a strong sense of place.
For us, it worked because it fit the route. We wanted to visit Miharu Takizakura, avoid driving all the way to Utsunomiya in one long push, and have a quiet rural ryokan night in between. With that expectation, Izutsuya was a good-value stay, and with the right room type I would happily recommend it for this kind of route.
FAQ
Is Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya a good place to stay?
Yes, if you are looking for a good-value rural ryokan stopover in Fukushima, especially near Miharu Takizakura. The food and staff were the highlights for us. It is not a modern luxury stay, so check your room type carefully before booking.
Does Nekonaki Onsen Izutsuya have private onsen baths?
During our stay, there was no private bath. The onsen setup was shared gender-separated baths with an indoor and outdoor bath.
Is the outdoor bath large?
No. Based on both of our impressions, the outdoor bath on each side felt most comfortable with around two people; three would be tight. Timing your bath when it is quiet will make the experience better.
Is there a Japanese-style toilet in the room?
Our annex room had a Japanese-style in-room toilet, with a western-style public toilet nearby. Other room types may differ, so check the exact room facilities before booking.
Is Izutsuya good for visiting Miharu Takizakura?
Yes, it can work well as a one-night rural ryokan stay if you are visiting Miharu Takizakura and travelling through this part of Fukushima by car.